The Bergen Nordpejs stove is made from both cast iron and steel.
Self adjusting feet.
- Height: 650mm
- Width: 545mm
- Depth: 390mm
- Flue Diameter: 150mm
- Fuel: Wood
- Nominal Heat Output: 5kW
- Efficiency: 84%
Most Recent Review
before connection of the vertical flue, and is bolted internally to the top of the inside of the stove flue outlet with a cast iron bar that goes across the flue internal outlet. How do you insert a brush into the flue without moving the Draft Diverter as the 2 x retaining bolts and nuts are almost impossible to remove as you only have access to the bottom nuts, and cannot hold the bolt heads which are on the chimney side of the Diverter cross bar?
Stove expert replied: Flue access is always recommended to be allowed above the stove even if there is access from within so an alternative point is available. A flue pipe with an access door should have been fitted at the time of installation.
Most Popular Review
closed as air cannot enter the stove without strong negative pressure. I got more heat from an open fire. I have just wasted £2000 because the extra requirements were not made clear before I bought it and the Hetas engineer was also unaware it has greater requirements than a normal 5kw stove. Even the installation instructions are unclear.
Stove expert replied: I am sure that there will be a way to make this stove work better! Contact a chimney specialist for further assistance as it is shame if you are disappointed. Otherwise contact manufacturer for help as to how to overcome this problem.
More reviews for Bergen stove (page 1 of 3)
brick broke after using it for about a month. Stovax said it wasn't covered under the warranty. I had to pay £20 to get a new one which broke after another month. They sent their engineer who couldn't see a problem but replaced the brick yet again. It has cracked down the middle two more times which results in the efficiency dropping and the glass no longer staying clean. Stovax have been patronising, rude and have refused to honour the warranty, insisting that I am at fault by throwing the wood in and running it with too much wood and too hot. None of these are true as I have a thermostat to ensure it is kept at the correct temperature. I must have a faulty model but they will not replace it - what a total waste after waiting so long to be able to afford it. Stovax should be ashamed of themselves. The 10 year warranty means absolutely nothing.
Stove expert replied: A stoves warranty does come with certain terms and conditions as with all makes and models. The liners / bricks are not covered by manufacturers as they are classed as consumable. They appear to have replaced the brick when their engineer called which I am assuming was free of charge. When they crack, have you tried fire cement to keep the parts together, this may then mean that a replacement is not required and the efficiency is not affected - worth trying as this seems an ongoing issue with this stove.
a woodburner for many years.This wood burner if burnt correctly is very very good The way I burn is build up a kindle /softwood bed and burn until it reaches a min temp of 250f-300f but don't close the door completely let air rush in as it's a big burner will need more air, then after it''s well alight after 5-6 mins put the number of logs in you desire 3 is sufficient or otherwise will get too hot, and close the door, main air vent close half way and second air vent push a inch in. Watch it roar and burn, I got 2hrs from 5 logs, 1 logs were birch and 1 cheery and other 3 from a supermarket - cheap wood £5 bagTo add more logs let it go down but stay within optimum temp and add more logs, after adding more logs keep door open for a few seconds then close immediate.My experience and hope it helps anyone who is having any issues with this burner
Stove expert replied: Please be careful when buying cheap wood - it is recommended that you get a moisture meter to insure that you only use wood that is dry and seasoned with a moisture content of less than 20% this will help to maintain a clear flue providing you keep the air controls partially open, have short periods of fast burn during each usage and have the chimney swept regularly.
closing the door. I''ve since ensured a good hot heart to the fire before closing the door and it''s worked great. I think that not having used the fire for quite some time I just had to get the flue well heated to get the updraught it needs. I''ve had a number of fires now and can see I was just being impatient. No stars for me, but five for the stove.
Stove expert replied: Good to get positive comments regarding how the problem has been overcome.
check the chimney and clean all parts. Having replaced everything following this and tried a couple of fires I find now that it is now not drawing well. As soon as the door is closed when the kindling are well alight (as I''ve always done) the fire dies down completely and only perks up if the door is reopened. I can''t think what I may have altered. The top baffle plate can be positioned hard to the back leaving a gap at front or visa versa. I''ve tried both ways. Is it possible the vent control has stuck closed? The fire was not used since last winter. If you think this could be the problem how do I get to the mechanism to free it off? I''ve checked the flue is not blocked and smoke does appear when trying to get the fire going.Your help would be appreciated.Reg
Stove expert replied: Please get the chimney swept, which is something that should be at least annually undertaken. If this does not resolve the problem then I am not sure what else to suggest except making sure that the internal components are installed correctly as per the manufacturers instructions. It does seem strange as this appears to be the only thing that has altered. You should be able to tell if parts move on the airwash when you operate it and a releasing graphiite spray may help if it has got stock having not been used for a while.
any kindling. Open the flow till it gets going and the logs are alight - 15 mins - then turn it down and it burns very well indeed.I am using very good hardwood logs. The ash mostly burns off itself - I clean out the bottom perhaps every 4-6 weeks and it is an easy clean. The airwash system works well as long as the fire is kept hot for a time - keep the fire at 450-600F for an hour and it completely burns off any residue. But it can tick over at 350-400F without consuming much fuel, so long as the logs are good hardwood.
Stove expert replied: The optimum operating temperature registered on a flue thermostat is between 230 - 460 F (110 - 250C) so you are running this stove far too hot for the hour long period, this can potentially lead to distortion of the body so can't be recommended and should be avoided. Short periods of fast burn (no longer than 20mins) when a fire is established should be adequate to clean off any residues that are produced during slumbering periods.
have this issue. It''s only a few months old and don''t want to continue with this issue. I have contacted the local installers again for help. Thanks
Stove expert replied: It would appear that there is only one position for the baffle to be located if you refer to the manual, and I am unaware of other customers that have had this issue.
then takes about ten minutes to reach a temperature hot enough to start the stove fan. It then runs on remarkably little wood and can be banked up to stay in overnight if needed. The fire picture is stunning. It does require either well seasoned or kiln dried logs to ensure an easy life but a little organization is necessary with any wood burner - not so?
had to have to room fumigated 3 times now! I thought it may have been an issue with the flue or ventilation so the contractor fitted an external vent straight into the fire. The flue is twin wall insulated, plenty high enough but just does''t seem to pull the smoke away from the firebox on lighting, with everything flowing into the room even through the air vents on the fire. I've been told I need to heat the flue before lighting but surely lighting a fire is enough to heat the flue. I've been told to use a gas gun to heat it for 5 minutes, surely I can't be expected to sit with a gas gun anytime we want to light a fire. I feel its been a waste of money. We had a wood burner in our last house, zero issues lighting. Latest attempt to light tonight, same issue and my 12 week old daughter was sleeping in the room as it filled with smoke. Contemplating removal of the stove.
Stove expert replied: The manufacturer is making contact with the customer to try to resolve the problem being experienced. If the flue draw is too low (this can be tested by the installer) then a flue fan may be required and this is then an installation problem and not the stove that is at fault. The flue used is rear on this installation and ideally it should top, the gases are collecting in the 45 degree elbows and preventing them from getting away quickly hence the problem. Either change to 90 degree T or top flue recommended, customer to follow up with installer.
and will burn steadily and strongly for about 45 minutes for every half log at around 350F to 400F. Tremendous output and very very steady clean burn. Perhaps clean the glass once a week but even then it remains fairly clear. I use the smoke control on all the time.I was using it first with shop purchased logs and 3 half logs at a time. Got 300F burn for an hour. The glass would cloud at the end. With good logs and using half logs it went to nearly 600F and burned for 1.5 hours. No issue now with repetitive cleaning.Really it's a dream piece of kit with good logs and a good draw using a 6" liner.
Stove expert replied: The fuel is one key element to ensure the stove performs to the best it can. Nice review.