Jotul F3 stove
The Jotul F3 is a wood burner - the wood burns on a bed of ashes without an ash pan and grate.
This stove is available with a clear glass window or a lattice door.
You can have the Jotul F3 in enamel finishes.
There is an optional multi fuel kit available
there is a clean burn & a standard model.
- Height: 707mm
- Width: 577mm
- Depth: 484mm
- Flue Diameter: 150mm
- Nominal Heat Output: 6kW
- Efficiency: 79%
Most Recent Review
it performed better and more efficiently. Best log burner by far
Stove expert replied: Great comments
Most Popular Review
very easily controllable. My only criticisms relate to handles: the door handle seems counterintuitive, and the heat control slider gets very hot so use a glove to use it! Great value overall.
More reviews for Jotul F3 stove (page 1 of 3)
sided shovel.Found it strange that a 'multi-fuel' (as it was advertised at the time) should provide no bottom vent, to supply air under the coal. Also, the coal at each side just goes out for want of air, which is only supplied in the centre. I see now they advertise it for 'wood only' which makes more sense.Otherwise, all it has needed is 3 or 4 new door ropes over the years. Used most nights in the winter.I would not buy another, but only because technology has moved on.By the way, do I need to check the upper baffles for blockages etc, and if so, are there any instructions out there?
but only this Jotul is falling apart. The warranty covers none of the damaged areas - suggesting that these more recent stoves are only cast iron on the external frame and heavens knows what ( some pigiron mix probably made in India/China) inside. Utterly appalling for an expensive stove - never again.
"burn" plates have disintegrated despite being used in exactly the same way as the older stove. I approached Jotul for their advice and they were very unhelpful (no fault of supplier), they say the plates are not covered by warranty. I could understand this line on a 10 year old stove, but the plates failed in less than 3 years. Read Jotul's warranty - with all the exclusions they include there is effectively very little left that is covered l - to me a totally worthless promise.
Stove expert replied: Always worth reading the small print on any warranty not only when purchasing a stove. Consumable items will not be covered, these include, liners, glass, baffle plates etc
and was most suited for what I needed. It has a wide range of output, so when going full blast it heats the whole house or it can be turned down lower to just heat the room.It burns mainly wood, but also coal if wanted.It looks beautiful and is very easy to use. It's very solid and well made. It wasn't cheap,but it was worth every penny.
go to the US site to get servicing instructions. I want to remove the air chamber to sweep, and my top flue means it will have to come out the front door. does anyone know if it comes out in one piece (Just 4 hex nuts) or has to be separated from the baffle plate?
Stove expert replied: 4.1 Replacing the Air Chamber Remove the door to avoid any damages to the glass or enamel. Disconnect the top plate of JÃ¸tul F 3. This is connected to the side plates with 2 collar head screws - one on each side. See fig. 3. Remove these with the Allen key which are supplied with the stove. In the case of side/rear connection, the following should be done: Unscrew the heat shield (fig. 4B). It will then be possible to use a screw driver to keep in place the screw which is situated there. 2. Unscrew the nuts under the air chamber at the back edge (towards the back wall), one on each side (fig. 8). 3. The air chamber is fastened at the front to the side burn plates with the screws (fig. 9). These are loosened and the air chamber can then be lifted out from above. 1. In the case of top connection, the following should be done: â€¢ â€¢ Lift out the ash moulding (the log stopper). The air chamber is lifted out through the door opening with one hand, while at the same time flipping in and pulling out the one of the side burn plates. The air chamber may now be lowered diagonally and twisted out via the door opening. Assembly of a new air chamber Follow the same procedure in reverse order. Page 24 of the manual for servicing procedures.
very badly when first lit, & I mean badly. It doesn't seem to relate to a particular weather condition outside. The flue was a new, twin-wall steel one, straight out through a wall. That has been checked & is clear. Nothing else has changed so we can't work out why the performance is different. Once the fire gets going the problem stops as the heat makes it draw properly. We're going to try it with a different cowl on the flue next but really, why would it not smoke for the first year or so & then start? Very odd. Other than that I like the stove. We only burn wood in it & it heats a large room quite quickly & is easy to turn up or down & to keep lit. It's easy to clean out & takes quite large logs. However, I would think twice before buying a full price one after my experience with the smoking, but that could turn out to have a simple explanation that I haven't found yet.
Stove expert replied: Please check that the internal baffle plate has not become distorted as this can cause smoke problems, at the same time check all seals to insure they still function. The weather can be a factor but a cowl may well overcome this problem.
the only heat source we have there. I would have liked an option of a more plain finish and an all glass door but I can live with the looks if it gives out the heat. Another great feature is the ash lip as this keeps our new sandstone hearth pretty clean.I have not tried overnight burning as the manual specifically states that it is not designed for this.
it. It worked well for about four years and then one winter I started it up and the stove back drafted really badly and would not stop. It would not draw no matter what and I ended up having to take the burning wood out to the driveway to get the smoke to stop - what a nightmare! I re-did all the maintenance and had the chimney checked and everything else I could think of, but no good, just lots of smoke everywhere any time I burned it from then on. I burned under different outside weather conditions, the best driest wood,etc. but I have never found a reason it stopped working and became such a terrible smoking monster. I had to completely stop using it, although I have tried it again few times over the last ten years - it always reminds me as smoke comes out it in all different directions what an evil dragon it's become. It's been just sitting there now for years, a total waste. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get any support from where I bought it and if something is wrong with the stove I have not been able to find a good source to help me troubleshoot it - something to think about when buying. I can not recommend it to anyone as it was an expensive stove that I had hoped would last a long time.
Stove expert replied: Have you got trees surrounding the property which have grown that could be caausing the problem. Might be worth getting the flue checked as this may need lining! Seems strange that it worked well inititially, very disappointing!