Firebelly FB1 stove
The contemporary Firebely FB1 stove has one plain door with a big glass panels in it.
You can place the stove on a 12m thick hearth you only need a 80m air gap either side and above the stove
The Firebely FB1 stove is a 6kw model and you can get a multi fuel kit & a log box for this model.
It is also available as a double sided stove.
- Height: 605mm
- Width: 522mm
- Depth: 422mm
- Flue Diameter: 125mm
- Nominal Heat Output: 6kW
- Efficiency: 78%
Most Recent Review
.All I can say is I'm glad I didn't pay full money for it.It looks really nice but is clearly built to a price. The biggest issue is the design and construction of the bottom air inlet control. The way it's constructed means it can never be truly shut. Other stoves offer far better control for different flue temps etc. It's basically really difficult to find the sweet spot in the burn. It's either running away with itself or not getting enough air. Somehow really difficult to tune compared to other stoves. You should be able to completely shut the air off with a modern stove but the design means the controls leak like crazy. Very disappointing.I guess the kind of people that buy a stove like the FB1 are more interested in how it looks rather the how efficiently it burns.
Stove expert replied: It is not good practice to shut the air off to any stove completely and there should be air passing through it to enable combustion to occur. I am sure with practice you will fine tune the air control to get a good rate of burn, good heat output and efficiency of fuel.
Most Popular Review
fire soon gets going, as long as there are a few ashes in the bottom and some good dry wood for the initial lighting. I haven't had much success keeping the fire in over night, but to be honest that doesn't bother me much. The only problems with the stove itself is the fact that the legs won't adjust, so put it on anything other than a flat surface it will rock, unless the legs are packed underneath.. but the major problem was the fire board which is lining the stove.... Every piece cracked within the 1st few weeks of use and the top one fell in onto the fire beneath. Utter rubbish stuff. I finished up forking out for a very expensive fireproof tile made for a industrial kiln, which hasn't let me down for months...The glass also fogs up quite often, so maybe the screen wash doesn't work that effectively...
Stove expert replied: Actually a lot of makes of stove do use these vermiculite firebricks. They can be damaged more easily than masonry style firebricks but they are very insulating. When loading a stove with vermiculite firebricks you should place the wood in the firebox, not throw the bits in or you may damage the bricks. I find that 2p coins or thin washers do a good job of adjusting for hearths which are not flat.
More reviews for Firebelly FB1 stove (page 1 of 3)
has sagged and I can see no easy way of repairing it or replacing the hinge _ can anyone help me out?
however as the coating is peeling off which I was told would happen if it came in contact with moisture, so heartily glad I didn't choose one of the lovely colours. Do all wood burning stoves do this?
the door, lit the fire back up in mid November, have used it about 4 nights but stopped as it was filling my room with smoke coming out the sides of the door when closed, I contacted firebely direct and was told it was because I was burning damp wood? I was burning kiln dried at the time, I then contacted the company who supplied the fire to me, they stated I have a cold spot on my flue and gave me instructions on how to over come this. I did explain to both parties there was smoke coming out of the door when it was lit up and when up to temperature, we'll everything came to a head last night after half hour of it burning, I opened the door to put some more logs on and the door fell off, i was stranded trying to hold door against the fire and managed to reach my mobile and ring my brother who assisted me in putting the fire out, my living room is covered in soot and stinks of smoke.
Stove expert replied: This is a shame and I am sure that the door can be re-attached to the stove. The issue of the smoke coming back into the room should also be able to be cured with either a liner (if you do not already have one) and anti down draught cowl, an extra length on the flue system or possibly an air brick in the room. This annoying problem can usually be overcome and would recommend that you ask your installer for further assistance. Firebely have sent an Engineer to assist with the problems and this is a self installed stove with a short flue which is not recommend by the company, it should be installed by a Hetas Engineer.
1100 for it and its no more then a basic but well made steel box. The flames look fab when at full blast but it does not throw out no where near the 12kw it advertises regardless of dry logs and other burning conditions, The vamiculite panels that create the fire box are absolutly useless and will cost you a small fortune to replace within a year. If you do what the following suggestion explains you will avoid this unnecessary expense, the side panels although cracked will remain good and in place,the top panel will crack and eventually collapse and is expensive to replace. I have overcome this issue by replacing this panel with a section of an old cast iron bath that I cut with a disc cutter the same dimension, it will last forever, I also put a baffle plate in the flue that controls the pull of draft and allows more burning time in the box thus giving you more heat. To conclude this is a nice looking metal box and the fire looks good when cosied up on settee but reality is there are a few more 12kw fires out there that will out perform this stove. The vamiculite panels are a joke and lets the stove down badly. A friend of mine bought a dru 78 12kw and it blasts out so much more heat then mine, very over priced stove, realistic price £800 for what it gives
Stove expert replied: Modifying a stove will invalidate the warranty. Most stoves on the market come with the vermiculite liners which will crack during use but providing they are protecting the metal of the stove are fine to use. Fire cement can be used to kepp the parts together. The problem of poor performance does not seem to be all of the stoves making as having installed a flue damper output has increased, the flue draw is a critical part to any stoves performance so investigate fully before condeming any stove.
want a black Victorian looking thing and the contemporary look and colour was the deciding factor as well as a good price. The girls in the showroom were great to deal with and delivery was on time. We have central heating as well but the FB1 throws out so much heat in its free standing corner position that the radiators are basically redundant. The lounge is big (22' x 14')with a vaulted ceiling and even on the coldest day the fire is adequate. The fire burns clean and efficiently after easy lighting and even if the glass gets smoky when starting if closed down too much, once the heat gets back up and the top vent is open (bottom closed) the glass magically clears - it really is beautiful to watch. The fire will resurrect sometimes next morning with a bit of paper and kindling but I didn't buy for that reason anyway so it's not a problem either way. It sits on the log box nicely which in turn sits on a tear drop corner glass hearth which looks good. My wife thought a wood burner would be a dirty smelly thing - it isn't. As long as I get the logs in from outside light and clean it from time to time she is delighted. Recommended
Stove expert replied: Great review of a happy customer and one that had reservations also now delighted. Good heat being generated and airwash doing its job effectively.
be able to sit in same room as" what a load of rubbish.We have one room 12m/2 floor space and the other 20m/2 with low ceilings, i reckon we could have got a much larger stove. i am sat in front of it at the moment while typing this with my face about a foot away from it with flames blazing.
Stove expert replied: the fb1 should give out about the right output for those rooms (if reasonably well insulated). One or two things is probably going on; the draw may be very strong which will reduce the output. This would be noticable from a sucking noise at the air vents and the stove would be easy to light but hard to control. It may also be that the rooms are very cold and badly insulated in which case the stove is too small and the classic symptom is that the 'stove does not give out any heat' when in fact it does but the heat is being sucked up into the rooms. I think possibly critism should be levelled at the salesman, not the stove?
in this respect) and we would certainly buy one again.It lights easily using newspaper, some cardboard and kindling. I usually run with a fully open top draught as it is fiddly to adjust to partially open (our stove has a small slider rather than the later knob control). Run in this way the glass only needs cleaning once every 6 to 8 fires (and even then it is only lightly "bloomed" rather than being sooty). To clean the glass I use a light dab of Stovax stove glass cleaner gel on a paint brush.The fire-bricks (boards on side, back and top) are lasting well although the back is cracked now - however I don't anticipate having to change it for several years.The best aspects are the stylish design, the large glass door and efficient air curtain. Also the stay-cool door handle.Slight negatives are the squeaky door hinges and the paint finish marking with use (although this can be re-sprayed easily) . Also the door seal is a little perhaps a little vulnerable and needs re-attaching at the bottom of the door from time to time. These minor negative points are easily out-weighed by the positives.
Stove expert replied: Good glass cleaner is woodash on a damp cloth or vinegar on a damp cloth, cheaper tan a proprietary brand. The firebricks when cracked should not cause a problem and a small amount of fire cement will hold them together if required. They should be changed when they do not protect the metal of the stove.
.The Morso 04 (5kw) is smaller than the Firebelly FB1 (6kw). I have put the Morso in a larger room (5.5mx4.85m), because it is in a south facing room, unlike the Firebelly, which is in a smaller North facing room (3.8mx3.5m). Also, the Morso has to stay burning all day, whereas the Firebelly usually has to warm up a cold room (usually under 10 degrees in the winter) for a few hours in the evening. So the rated sizes are good for me.I generally get the impression that many vendors suggest, and many purchasers buy woodburners that are too large. This means they do not burn efficiently, or the room overheats, or both. If you have background central heating as well, you want a much smaller woodburner because it will not be your only source of heat in the extreme cold.Both fires are very efficient compared to the Jetmaster, and use fewer logs. It is hard to compare efficiencies, but the Morso probably has the edge over the Firebelly, but not by much.You can fit way bigger logs into the Firebelly, which is useful for slowing down the burn.The Morso has a multi-fuel grate built in, while the Firebelly doesn't (you can buy one separately).The Morso has an ash pan, so clearing out the ash is easier than the Firebelly.Both fires are quite messy when you open the door.The airwash works fine on both of them. Neither have double-glazing, and both get sooted up if you don't burn hard enough (is that a reason not to over-size your woodburner). Even Clearview stoves get sooted up as well, according to some friends, who have 3 Clearview woodburners. When we were round for dinner recently, they kept the doors of their Clearview 650 open, and it was just smouldering. I think they should have put in something half the power for that room.Controllability is better for the Morso, as the top slit in the Firebelly is a bit of a pain. They have now revised the design with a thing that you twist. I'm not sure whether that is an improvement, as the range of implements I would be able to use to move it is probably smaller. Currently, I usually use a lighter to open and close it, and only very occasionally bother to get the supplied tool to have it half open. With the Morso, you just do it smoothly with your hand.I personally find it is better to run both of them fully open and adjust the size and arrangement of logs to regulate heat.The handle on the Firebelly stays cool. Yes. You don't have to put on a glove to open the door. This is a major advantage over the Morso, and in fact, most woodburners. The function you use most often is... opening the door. So this is one of the most important factors.I'm very happy with both, and they suit the rooms well. I've heard a couple of vendors say uncomplimentary things about the Firebelly: that the glass gets sooted up (so do others), the ventilation control is pants (true), but no one mentions about the glove that you don't have to use. I think that outweighs the ventilation issue.