Morso Panther stove
The Morso Panther is a cast iron multi fuel stove.
Morso is a Scandinavian stove make with a 10 year body guarantee.
The Panther has 2 doors, both with with glass in them.
The Panther has primary and secondary combustion - making it a cleanburning stove.
The Morso Panther is also available as a convector model and used to be available with a back boiler.
- Height: 605mm
- Width: 598mm
- Depth: 505mm
- Flue Diameter: 150mm
- Fuel: Multi fuel
- Nominal Heat Output: 8kW
- Efficiency: 72%
Most Recent Review
and her 2 children needed a place to live as well. I did this 2 years ago and at the time my research told me that propane heat was only a little more expensive than if I had to buy wood. This has proven NOT TRUE for me at least and is driving my family into the poor house. That being said I have turned to my only other option now and decided to install a wood stove and metal chimney in the small apartment. I was lucky enough to get a stove severely discontinued to me because they knew I worked with a charity and was struggling financially. This stove just so happens to be a Morso 2110. It was heavy and hard to move but what stove isn't. Its also a very pretty stove and seems like it's well built but I have yet to be able to have a fire. I finally have the chimney pipe and everything I need to install it. However I am a little confused about something, maybe you can help me. In all the reading material I've gone through they say you need fire bricks on the sides and bottom of wood stoves. OK no problem. In one of the 2 instruction books about the 2110 I found it briefly mentioned "make sure bricks are properly positioned" but without any pattern or explanation of what they mean. So I bought fire bricks. However as I'm looking at the inside trying to figure out what I'm supposed to do with them I see what appears to be on the left and right side specially cut and inserted fire bricks already on those sides. They are somehow firmly attached to the sides. The back has what appears to be a shield on the inside then the cast iron then on the outside a heat shield attached to reduced clearance. The inside of the bottom is thick cast iron (I think) grating with a ash pan underneath that then the cast iron bottom of the stove. So now I am so confused about this fire brick situation??? It looks like they already have them permanently installed on the sides and that implies to me that they aren't supposed to be anywhere else or they'd have put them there too? Adding a layer of fire bricks on the bottom is going to make my box smaller and also mean that ash cant go into the ash pan? The back also doesn't seem to need any brick. IDK what should I be doing here? Any answers would be helpful. Also would be happy to hear people's input about any useful tips for efficient and safe wood stove use. Thanks everyone :-)
Stove expert replied: I have emailed you the exploded diagram of parts that make up this stove for your information. Did you get a manual with the stove as this gives guidance regarding how to operate it effectively and efficiently? If not this can be downloaded from the internet. The grate in the bottom of the stove will allow you to use smokeless fuel or wood on the stove and for wood burning you would not use the riddling mechanism but leave the ash to build up to a good bed, this will only need to be removed periodically as wood burns best on a bed of ash with an over draught. Perhaps once installed and you are using the stove you will review it from a working point of view.
Most Popular Review
for ages on secondary combustion - I tend to leave door open for first 20 seconds of lighting - then leave the primary air open for a few minutes - thirdly turn off the primary air & move onto secondary air supply.
More reviews for Morso Panther stove (page 1 of 3)
this mechanism again it's becoming sluggish to slide across, tonight the primary wheel vents on the doors won't open or close we've noticed this only occurs when the stove is running at high heat as it begins too cool by allowing the wood to practically burn out as we can not control the heat due to all control levers and primary air wheels on the doors are seized and fixed - at the point of completely cooling off these air controls begin to work again /please help any suggestions as this is a cast iron row bust stove 8 kw output I never envisaged I had to limit the loading capacity seems things just didn't operate under reasonably high heat this is a big let down because I thought its output could cope with our winter defeating the whole object again any suggestions please
Stove expert replied: If a stove gets too hot it can cause components to expand and then not be operable. Have you a stove thermostat so you can see the correct operating temperatures? A graphite lubricating spray or powder may help to allow moving parts to run freely. A stove should not be running a full capacity continually but being operated on a nominal setting where the flames are dancing steadily with short bursts of max heat to burn off residues produced when operating on a low setting. (maximum operation should be no more than 15 - 20 mins when the fire is established). The average heat output of this stove is 8kW so is suitable for medium to large room depending on other heat sources etc. If you operate the stove on maximum for long periods you invalidate the warranty and stand to distort components and possible crack the casting.
wood, we have three in the family and rate them with top marks, the best thing i have ever bought for heating the house.
Stove expert replied: Fabulous comments, great service from the Morso stoves - 23 years and little added expense of spares. Money well spent!
, the "funnel" on the inner back plate will fill with ash which you can't easily clean out. Eventually the acidic ash will corrode the bolts holding on the round blanking plate and it will be pushed off by the corrosion. What is the point of the funnel shape on the inner backing plate exactly?
Stove expert replied: I am not aware of the reasons behind the manufacturers designs,. Having had the stove for nearly 10 years components will show signs of wear and tear. Otherwise this stove has performed well.
the glass and there had been no impact from inside by falling logs etc. We both had a look at the glass and it really looked as if the crack had in some way been generated from the fixing point!?! She asked her local dealer to come and investigate and replace the broken pane, which they did not, the glass eventually cracked all the way across, then the other door cracked in exactly the same way, cracking diagonally from the bottom screw up. The glass has still to be replaced despite frequent requests to local dealer, Morso have said it is condensation from infrequent use but my mum has the woodburner in constant use and both doors have cracked in exactly the same way. Has anyone heard of this happening as a result of condensation. She sources dry wood and moisture test them before using. I am really unhappy about the way my mum has been treated and essentially she still has a stove with to broken doors, would be very grateful for any advice as she has been told by Morso that she has to refer back to the local dealer, but four months down the line they have still yet to order the glass for her let a lone come and have a look.
by a Heatas installer with the correct liner. However the back plate has burnt through. Any comments on what this could be down to? We have replaced the plate ourselves fitting new rope at the same time. On re-assembly we have found that it is impossible to get the back plate bolts back into the holes behind the plate even though they line up. It appears that the thickness of the rope has opened the gap by a mm or two. I wonder why the bolts are so down-to-size that this is an issue. Any ideas for a solution other than just going in search of slightly longer bolts?
Stove expert replied: I hope this is the part you are referring to: Procedure for the replacement of the inner back panel MorsÃ¸ Panther Open and remove doors by lifting them off the hinges Lift the weight of the baffle plate off the side bricks and rotate each brick in turn into the centre of the stove and remove With the bricks removed it will now be possible to take the baffle plate out Remove centre riddling grate and inner grate frame, it is sometimes easier to remove the riddling grate and the riddling arm as one and withdraw through the stove, to achieve this it will be necessary to unscrew the riddling arm knob Now remove the outer grate frame (key 1), the frame is clamped into the stove by two crosshead screws and â€˜Lâ€™ brackets, slacken the screws and rotate the brackets out of the way Outer Grate Screw Location Point (one either side) Remove the 4 bolts holding the air-wash manifold (key 6) It may be necessary to lever or use a mallet to tap the front edge of the manifold down to remove it Unbolt and remove the inner back panel (key 3) Ensure the channels that the manifold and back plate locate into are clear of debris and replace gaskets if necessary (8mm very soft gasket- MorsÃ¸ gasket kit 62904300) Loosely place the new inner back plate in position but do not fix with bolts Pull the top edge of the back plate forward and position the air wash manifold on top of it Push both components back at the same time until the air wash hits the inside top face of the stove then use a scissor action to walk the panels into place. Secure both components with the fixing bolts Reassemble grate frame, baffle and bricks Ensure the doors are correctly refitted before operating the stove
Stove expert replied: This model can burn wood and smokeless fuels. We do not recommend that you burn wood and smokeless fuel at the same time: burning smokeless fuel produces sulphuric acid and wood can contain a lot of moisture - this combination can coat your chimney in sulphuric acid solution which can quickly eat away at anything. Plus the conditions for burning wood efficiently are not the same as those for burning smokeless efficiently.
is next to useless and you end up shovelling the ash out. More ash then falls through to the underside of the grate. The ash pan is not full sized so you end up scraping ash from below the grate. The riddle control cannot be operated with the door open.I have a Franco belge stove which knocks this into a cocked hat.Wouldn't buy another Morso.
Stove expert replied: Disapoointing as Morso have a good reputation.
I love it. The only issue I have with the stove is that if you damp it down all the way overnight the glass gets covered with creosote which is a pain to remove (can be achieved with a glass scraper easily enough). I would recommend this stove as it's simplicity personified and just works!
Stove expert replied: If you shut the air controls for over night burning then the glass will blacken due to not having the correct mix for good combustion, try using a cloth dipped in woodash or vingegar, also insure that the wood has 20% or less moisture content.