Charnwood Island III stove
The Charnwood Island III is the largest in the Island range having an output of 12 kw. Logs of 550mm in length will fit through the doors. The grate converts for either wood or multifuel use.
- Height: 713mm
- Width: 732mm
- Depth: 400mm
Most Recent Review
well it looks fantastic. However at times, and it is really difficult to know when these times might be, it is tricky to light and I seem to spend a lot of time cracking the doors open, then closing, then opening as sometimes it goes out. I am sure there is a way to do this better than I am. The installation was top notch and the same company had installed another stove for us a few years back, by another manufacturer also beginning in C. This one is very straightforward but the kw not as great and the draw naturally better as it is joined to the main chimney system whilst the Charnwood is in a single storey extension albeit the flue extends to 1 1/2 metres above the roof apex. Would I buy again? Yes, I love it, but it does have its moments.
Stove expert replied: The reason for the difficulties sounds like it is because the stove is in a single storey and hence with have a shorter flue, this will mean that the main chimney has a better draw and will affect this stove even if in another part of the property. Lengthening the flue system may help but a flue draw test may confirm this is the issue. The weather conditions may also affect the flue draw. If it continues to be a problem then a flue fan could be added to be used when required as it appears not to be a continuous problem. This is not a fault with the stove but an installation issue.
Most Popular Review
'skill' to get it going, and needed to be re loaded before it got too low. .... The Island 3 has a control knob, this can shut the fire down when closed, and when open produces a super charged effect ! the result is easy lighting with minimal sticks, and a pleasing slow flame burn when it is going, and shut down a bit. It chucks out loads of heat, I sit 10 -12 feet away from the stove and need to peel layers of clothes off within 30 mins, it is also quite frugal on log consumption, eating less than the old morso. Down sides so far: I have a cream colored stove, so it doesn't look hot, so have burnt my hands on the doors ... (stupid but easy)when re loading the fire you have to open the doors very slowly or you get covered in hot ash !!! but this is prob the same for all fires with doors.The 'airwash' works well ..... but you will need to clean the glass frequently another job to do if you are used to an open fireIf you want a good sized log burner I don't think you will be disappointed .Pricey .... yes .... but nice build quality, good looking, and works well.
More reviews for Charnwood Island III stove (page 1 of 2)
disappointing, it does not draw well or really give out any great heat for its size. The ash blows out when the door opens and also falls out over the low front bar, so the room(s) are covered in fine ash dust. As it has had 3 different flues; 2 up concrete lined chimneys (1850''s farmhouse)and now a flue going up and then out exterior wall and above roof line, I feel I can say it''s not the installation, it is the stove. We have a Country 8 in one of the other chimney flues and it roars away. I wish I had never purchased it and had got a Clearview instead. Charnwood customer service not helpful.
Stove expert replied: Has the stove never given out the expected heat and is it the right kW for the space you are trying to heat? The installation will be key, especially as you have another working flue in the property which may be preventing this flue from working effectively. If the other flue has a stronger draw then this can prevent this flue from lifting the gases away and will give a sluggish stove and poor performance. The fuel will also be important and wood needs to be dry and well seasoned with a moisture content of less than 20%.
requirement to install it to the heating system, will I damage the fire not using the water function, are there pre requisits for doing this?
Stove expert replied: A boiler stove must not be used as a dry stove and it is not recommended to be used in this way. There is potential for problems when it is not connected to a water system and should only be used when installed for the purpose that it was manufactured for..
glass (which the stove was designed to accommodate) would have allowed them to mount the brackets that hold the glass out of the viewing field, which makes getting the glass completely clean nearly impossible. The rope seals for the glass overlap the glass and can be seen from outside the stove. Would a drop of Lock-tite on the throttle button, so it doesn't unthread itself, have broken the bank? On the plus side, the single lever control works extremely well and adjusts the intensity of the flame in fine increments. The large doors allow an excellent view of the fire. Mine burns timber so fast (no boiler, btw) that we've nicknamed it the Oliver Cromwell, as it will single-handedly deforest this island in it's lifetime. I find the internal dimensions awkward; the wide and surprisingly shallow burn area makes for awkward loading of fuel. Ticks loudly as the box expands from heat. I don't think this is as premium a stove as their advertising makes their products appear.
Stove expert replied: If the stove is working hard all the time with little control do get the flue draw tested to ensure that it is not in excess of the recommended strength in the manual, this can have an adverse affect on the stove and the components used therein.
only to find out that it is not factory painted but done locally.....by spray...not done very well and had to buy an extra cannister for 24 euro and do some myself...as the local company was amateurish in its application...my old aunt could have done better!!! ended up by touching up missed bits and trying to get rid of over painted bits!!! Insist on factory painted job.
great in its place. I am not at all pleased with its operation though. Firstly. It doesn't give out nearly enough heat. Nothing like the previous Jotul and way less than the claimed 12kw. My timber is well dried ( usually around 15% moisture and 3 years stacking) but there just doesn't seem to be enough airflow there to make a decent fire. Usually I burn ash, birch and alder but occasionally I have to use chestnut which is just hopeless - the fire burns up for a while but then fades, leaving me with a stove full of cold charcoal even if I have set the airflow close to maximum. Further, my stove will not cope with thick logs no matter what type of timber they are. Charnwood tell me now that it is designed to cope with 50mm diameter max wood - this was not in any of their printed literature as far as I can see and is not what you could reasonably expect from a great big stove. Also it is filthy in operation. Although the riddling system is first class and the ash cans work very well, I get a face ( and room ) full of dust every time I open the doors no matter how carefully I do it. And finally the glass - if you keep the vents open 60% or more the windows stay reasonably clean. Shut it in and they look like they've been painted in tar. A hot burn might sort of clear parts of them, but it is not really satisfactory. You can forget shutting in a fullish stove to keep it burning overnight. There is some fundamental design flaw with this stove. It looks lovely, but it is just unsatisfactory at doing its job. In my opinion too much emphasis on fancy technology, not enough on getting heat out of wood.
Stove expert replied: It does sound as if you may have a poor draw on the flue system as you should not get ash blowing back into the room when you open the door. Have you adequate air in the room for the size of stove? Is the chimney lined? The installation should be checked to insure that it matches the requirements of the manufacturer.
gets dirty but after all it is a fire, every now and then, if you are that fussy, simply lift doors off and wipe on oven pride jelly and seal in bag provided over night then clean off with cloth comes off in seconds. Or sometimes give it a good burn on full choke to clean. The heat is very good I have a 25ft by 19ft living room with a cold stone wall construction and it does the job. Parts are easy to get and reasonably priced my wife forced door shut on what must have been half a tree and cracked glass, had one within 2 days in post and it only took 5 mins to fit easily. Built mine with twin wall steel flue which is internal through house then out of roof acts like radiator in house.
Stove expert replied: Do not use anything but glass cleaner, woodash or a cloth dipped in vinegar otherwise a chemical reaction may occur with the casting of the door. Burn only dry seasoned timber of not more than 100mm diam and you should have clean glass all day long. Always give a woodburner short periods of fast burn at least twice in every 24 hours to clean off an residues that are produced in the slow burning periods.
oven cleaner on a piece of kitchen towel. Does the trick brilliantly and window is lovely and clean so you can see your flames dancing away once more!I'd be really grateful is anyone has any tips about how to clean the cream doors and framework though...
of brown glass which is almost impossible to clean properly.Not sure it is worth the high price tag.Relaoding is a pain unless all signs of a flame are gone.Like an open fire it take a good bit of cleaning each day
Stove expert replied: Damp / wet fuel should not be used on any closed appliance as it will prevent it from working effectively, tar up the firebox and turn the glass black. Only use wood that is less than 20% moisture content, perhaps a moisture meter would be a good purchase! To clean glass use a cloth dipped in wood ash or vinegar to remove deposits. Give stove short periods of fast burn to minimize deposits forming on the glass, say 15-20 mins each use once you have an established fire.